Muscat after dark
Rayan Elias
Sunset on the Mutrah corniche, frankincense in the souq and the city lights under the Al Hajar mountains.
Muscat is not a city that shouts. After a day of heat, it comes alive slowly: families walk the corniche at Mutrah, the souq lights up and the Al Hajar mountains turn purple behind the white buildings.
We started at sunset on the Mutrah corniche, then lost an hour in the souq among frankincense burners, silver khanjars and sacks of dried limes. Haggling is expected, but gently, and a cup of Omani coffee with dates often comes with the bargain.
Dinner was grilled kingfish and Omani shuwa at a small restaurant by the fish market, followed by a drive past the Royal Opera House, which is even more beautiful lit up at night.
Go between October and March, when the evenings are cool. Dress modestly in the souq, carry some cash, and save the next morning for the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, which opens to visitors from 8:00 to 11:00, Saturday to Thursday.